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Showing posts with label Kunal Majumder. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kunal Majumder. Show all posts



NOBEL INTERVIEW PART 2/ LIFE, PEACE & INDIA

Nobel Peace Laureate 2008 Martti Ahtisaari speaks to MA Convergent Journalism student Kunal Majumder about his inspiration in life, qualities of a peacemaker and India’s role in global politics.

Mr President, taking a cue from the proposition that the child is father to the man, tell us a little about your formative years. Specifically, what were the lessons you learnt in childhood that you believe have helped make you the person you are today?

Very early in my life I became a displaced person, when my family moved from Viipuri, my birthplace [now Vyborg, Russia; annexed from Finland by the Soviet Union during WWII], with 400,000 Karelians. My mother and I moved from one house to another
in Finland – staying first with relatives, later with total strangers.

Fortunately, we were treated extremely well. I realised then how much someone in such a situation is at the mercy of others. In my case it was a positive experience; not everyone is as fortunate. That experience deeply influenced my international career.

I was also very lucky that opportunity knocked when it did. I got my chance. I’m not someone who has unique capabilities as a peacemaker; there are many others who may be more capable, but whether they get the opportunity is the real issue.

I’ve met and worked with extremely competent people in my life. I admire professionalism, whether in a journalist or my driver or the carpenter who helps out in my summer house. I admire people who know what they are doing.

How did the fact that your father served in the Continuation War with the Soviets, and you yourself served in the army, influence your attitudes towards war, and therefore, towards peace?

My father was a military technician. I learnt much from him, but not as a military man. He was a religious man and a sportsman in his younger days – a fairly good runner. He was a kind man; a soft-spoken man. I do not think he particularly loved the armed forces;
I do not think he would have ever said, ‘Please join the army’.

I, like most young people in Finland, did my compulsory military service. That was a natural choice. When I was running for president, my son said that he would like to choose the civilian alternative in national service. I defended his right, as it was a constitutional and legal right.

Of course, I was criticized – ‘How can you become president when your son doesn’t want to do his military service?’ But I defended his right. Actually, I enjoyed defending his right. There is nothing wrong with his values; he will defend his country in some manner or the other, not necessarily as a soldier. He is an IT specialist, so he has many other avenues to serve his country.

Then, of course, as president, I became the commander-in-chief of my country’s armed forces. I am very proud of our military, it has been involved in several UN peacekeeping operations, on all continents – it’s difficult to find a national army that has played a bigger role in peacekeeping.

Unfortunately, I have also come to recognise that sometimes you require force. For instance there is now a clause accepted by the UN General Assembly, which is not binding, but says that if a dictator treats his people wrongly, the international community has a responsibility to intervene. It’s much better than talking about humanitarian intervention. Sometimes, you have to do that.

Looking back at the course of your life, is there one particular person who created the biggest impression on you in terms of the individual you became and the career path you chose?

I’m not terribly impressed by people in politics. Ordinary people are more important than political leaders. But there is one person in the world that I consider as being closest to a saint – President Mandela.

I had read about him when he was in prison for 27 years; I came to know him when he was released. We talked about common friends who were in jail with him. The most remarkable thing was that there was no bitterness against those who kept him in jail; he even invited his jailors to his inauguration, which I attended.

I do not think he wanted to humiliate them; there was a human bond that had developed somehow. Of all the people in the world, he stands the tallest.

What are the essential qualities of a peacemaker?

There is no particular qualification as such. I think you need an enormous amount of patience. You also need to have sound strategic sense – in a way, peacemaking is also about strategic planning; a peacemaker must have an idea what the end-result is going to be.

People tend to forget that there is a historical context to every conflict and very often the path to peace is known from the beginning. In Namibia, for example, it was that South Africa had to go, elections organised and independence would follow. In Ache (Indonesia), it was the offer by the government of special autonomy; whether those who were fighting for independence would accept the offer – that was the whole exercise.

In Kosovo, it was clear from the beginning that Mr Milosevic and company had done wrong; the return of Kosovo to Serbia was not a viable option, so independence was the way forward. Also, you have to realise that you can’t resolve everything through peace negotiations – you have to concentrate on the essence of the conflict and look to create a framework in which other issues can be resolved.

Patience and perseverance are essential. We Finns say that we in this country have stamina, strength of will; we call it sisu, and it is very handy. It is also very important that you be an honest broker. For me, it is most important that the outcome I am negotiating is something that I can personally accept.

President Obama took office in the US this January. The world seems to expect much of him – perhaps too much. According to you, how different will Obama’s world be from that of his predecessor, President Bush?

First, Obama’s victory speaks well of America. I lived there for many years when I worked with the UN; I have always argued that Americans, as a society, have the capacity to correct their mistakes. If they go in one direction and people feel that they need to change course, they do. President Obama’s victory in the elections was remarkable in many ways – how he was able to inspire the younger generation was remarkable.

I think the major problem is that we now see an almost messianic hope – that this is a man who can resolve all our issues. I don’t think anyone in their right mind will envy the president in his task! But I think he has started well. He moved fast with the formation of his cabinet. He has done the right things. He is trying to tackle the economic crisis. His vice president made the first major foreign policy statement, which was reassuring.

I would hope that President Obama is prepared to work with rest of the world. And that the US is always prepared to listen to their friends and collaborators. For instance, that they would want inputs from Europe on places like Afghanistan, where we have realised that seeking a military solution is not the right way. You will need a military presence there to facilitate a civilian solution. These are complicated things. However, the important thing is their openness. The same way they declared that they are open to talk to Iran. That is very reassuring.

President Zardari recently declared that Taliban is trying to overrun Pakistan. What is your assessment of the situation there?

I have only seen the comments made by the Pakistan government. There have been attempts to calm the situation in the region and I hope it actually happens. It has very much to do with the situation in Afghanistan. My feeling has always been that you have to address all the issues at the same time – Israel-Palestine, Afghanistan, Iraq and relations with Iran – in order for the overall situation to calm down. However, the priority to my mind has always been the Middle East issue, the Israel-Palestine conflict. If we cannot solve that, it will vitiate the atmosphere in other places.

Looking at conditions in the subcontinent today, what role do you see India playing in global politics in the coming years?

India has always played an important role in global politics. Addressing both India and Pakistan, I would say it is high time to resolve the Kashmir issue, so that it can be removed from the relationship. My attitude towards frozen conflicts is very negative.

When I was dealing with Kosovo, some of my diplomatic friends asked me why I was in a hurry. ‘Why can’t we have frozen conflicts in Kosovo as we have in Cyprus and the Middle East?’ they argued. I said that I’m not in the business of creating more frozen conflicts.

On the contrary, I think we should all try to solve all those conflicts. I do not think it is impossible. No one can convince me that Kashmir is beyond solution. And I don’t think you need outsiders. Neighbours go through difficult times, but have to live together. The unfortunate events in Mumbai have further complicated the matter. But if things are handled in the way we see now, perhaps it will make for a better relationship.

You are referring to India’s reaction after the Mumbai terrorist attack of November 26, 2008? How would you assess that reaction and what advice would you give the Indian government?

I have really admired the way India has handled that most unfortunate incident in Mumbai. I think its behaviour has been very statesman-like. I have nothing to advise the Indian Government. It was very important that they provided the facts; now it is up to
Pakistan to clarify the situation and to see that this sort of things is not repeated. The Indian government’s reaction has been exemplary.

Lastly, again referring to your Nobel Prize acceptance speech, you emphasised the need for more humanitarian assistance and investment in poorer countries You said, “A reduction in foreign assistance and investment would be disastrous for badly needed economic growth … Hundreds of millions of young people will be out of work in countries that are in early stages of development. If nothing is done, such places will become breeding grounds for crime, instability and war”.
Could you elaborate on this thought please?


If you are a young man in your teens, growing up in surroundings, where you can’t find any decent work and often no work at all, you become easy prey for criminal elements. I appeal to developed nations to keep their promises for financial assistance. Even in places where there are problems in governance, like Africa, the situation is improving. Some countries are now doing relatively well.

I’m delighted when I look at the index developed by Harvard University। Last year, Namibia was among the six best sub-Saharan countries. We can achieve big things. Perhaps we need to be optimists – realists, but optimists!

I’m involved in the Middle East and in North Africa (Doha) through a foundation. The idea is to improve the employment possibilities of young people. Behind this is the recognition that in the next decade we will have at least 1.2 billion men and women under the age of thirty, looking for work. With traditional means maybe we can employ 30,000.
So what do we do with nearly a billion?

I think we have to be hopeful for people. It is vital that we analyse how economies are developing in different countries – will there be employment opportunities for the future? Then focus on proper education. Seek to develop as many entrepreneurs as possible. There should be no problems with micro credit. This is important and I’m working with people who can do this. If young people don’t feel a sense of hope, criminal and terrorists are the best recruiters. We have to fight poverty – that’s my basic message.

© M 2009
Picture courtesy: Mikko Koivumaa

Who's AR Rahman?

Posted In: . By Journalism student

It is quite amusing to see how geo- political differences can influence the coverage of events that have cultural acceptability across borders. KUNAL MAJUMDER scans Dawn and The News of Pakistan, and The Daily Star and The New Age of Bangladesh in search of two words ‘AR Rahman’ and ‘Oscars’.

While the Indian media went overboard with the coverage of Oscars, the Pakistani media tried its best to ignore the Indian connection. The leading newspaper Dawn has no mention of AR Rahman’s win. In its lead article – ‘Slumdog scoops eight of its ten nominations’ (23 Feb, 2009); it does mention that the movie is based in Mumbai and gives brief outline of the story. Beyond that, it simply ignores the Indians who won the Oscars. A feeling that Dawn intentionally wanted to stress on the poverty angle of the story comes with the accompanying articles and photographs of slum kids.

The News, of the Jang Group, was no different. The article -- ‘Slumdog Millionaire’ wins Oscar gold at 81’st Academy Awards (February 24, 2009) tells the readers that Slumdog is small-budget British movie on “A ragtag group of Indian orphans”. The writer mentions how the cast and the crew of the movie was present to accept the best film award, which included “several school children who were plucked from Mumbai’s shantytowns to appear in the movie”. AR Rahman again ignored!

The Daily Times also ignores the Indian winners. However, it has a more sympathetic approach. It quotes Danny Boyle offering gratitude to Mumbaikars and saying they even, “dwarf even this guy (Oscar statue)”. The newspaper is the only one to carry a photograph of the cast and crew of the film, where you can see Anil Kapoor, AR Rahman and Rasul Pookuthy.
One wonders how many Pakistanis actually know about Penelope Cruz and Hugh Jackman, compared to AR Rahman!

Bangladeshi awareness
Bangladeshi newspapers seem to be much more aware about the Indians in the movie. In an article – Oscar Glory for ‘Slumdog’(February 24, 2009), The Daily Star mentions AR Rahman’s win quite prominently. The newspaper calls Slumdog Millionaire a “feel-good film about a Mumbai tea boy who rises from poverty and enters a television quiz show to win millions and find the love of his life”. Quite a contrast to Pakistani media’s definition. It goes on to mention that in spite of being directed and produced by Englishmen, many Indians claim it to be their own. The article also mentions about Resul Pookutty and the best documentary – Smile Pinki. Photographs alongside have AR Rahman with his two Oscar statues.

‘AR Rahman wins Golden Globe’ was the front-page story on The New Age (February 24, 2009). The newspaper used Reuter’s input and made Rahman’s win the peg of the story. The writer spoke about the versatility of Rahman’s music and his other achievements. While other western actors and films did get a mention, but it didn’t dominate the story unlike the Pakistani coverage.

It is quite amusing to find how geo- political differences can influence the coverage of events that have cultural acceptability across borders.


NOBEL INTERVIEW PART 1/ MUSLIM NATIONS
IN THE FIRST PART, NOBEL PEACE LAUREATE 2008 MARTTI AHTISAARI SPEAKS TO KUNAL MAJUMDER ABOUT HIS VIEWS ON EUROPE’S RELANTIONSHIP WITH TURKEY AND THE MIDDLE EAST CRISIS
Nobel Peace Laureate Martti Ahtisaari has a special relationship with Turkey. A career diplomat, who became the first directly elected president of Finland, is man of immense stamina and patience. It was during his term as the chairman of European Union, the process of Turkey’s EU candidacy began. That was 1999. Ahtisaari continues to believe that Turkey can one day become a part of the Union.

Has Turkey moved anywhere nearer to an EU membership in the last ten years? Yes, he says. He is the chairman of an independent commission that support Turkey undertake the necessary reforms. “We produced our first report in September 2004. We had argued then that Turkey has filled all the criteria so that EU may start the process to start negotiations. I would have personally hoped that there were more reforms carried out. The government had appointed a new chief negotiator and I thought that this is very positive move. But as Turkey is getting towards elections, it is not a time when reforms are usually carried out,” he adds.


Former Finnish President is also critical of some EU members who are artificially creating blockades for Turkey’s entry. “In the second report which we are going to produce in September, we look into not only what Turkey does but also EU and some of the individual members are doing. If some member states are blocking some of the major sectors then, we have to take a critical look at that. So I wouldn’t be surprised if we would be saying some critical things about Turkey and some EU member states as well.”

When asked whether being a Muslim-majority-nation is a hindrance for Turkey’s entry into the elite club of European nations, he was quick to retort, “I would hate to live in a Europe that would not accept Turkey that happens to be a secular Muslim state. More important to me and my country as well is that Turkey fulfils the criteria like all the other countries that what to join EU. If they do, I see not reason why Turkey should not be a part of EU.”

Ahtisaari also points out that acceptance of Turkey in the mainstream Europe has strategic importance. “It is not only the political and strategic issues that we have been now discussing but also then the whole energy issue – the Nakupa pipeline. EU now put 250 million euros. We need alternative routes. Alternative routes are important in the overall energy strategy. It will send a very sad message if we say that Europe is some sort of Christian bastion and does not allow Muslim countries to join. I would rather not like to live in such sort of Europe. It was during my presidency, EU accepted Turkey’s candidacy. That is why my friends asked me to chair the commission to help Turkey’s candidacy, I accepted. It felt it is my responsibility.”

On the Middle East
The role of Turkey in the Palestine-Israel conflict is an important, feels the Nobel laureate. “When we see what happened in Gaza and Turkey’s role in the broader region is an important one. It was good that somebody was talking to Hamas when others were not for one reason for another to do that. It is very difficult otherwise to get their cooperation. This finally led to cease-fire.”

Elaborating further of the country’s role in the Middle East, he said, “Turkey has tried to look into it (Palestine-Israel conflict) in a rather balanced manner. People said that Turkey would isolate itself by talking to Hamas. But I definitely welcome the Turkish role. Turkey’s role is also important in relationship with Iran, Iraq and Afghanistan.”
Ahtisaari had claimed that international community is not doing enough to resolve the Middle crisis. "I do not think there has been enough political will. Partly it also the fact that with Palestinians split. They have to form a united front. It is very easy to exploit that division. And there for instead of bypassing Hamas, the important thing is to get them somehow involved. Because if any movement, how difficult some people might find their policies, enjoys the support of the population through a free and fair elections, it is very dangerous to avoid these people."

Peace & Work
Even at the age of 72, Martti Ahtisaari has no plans for retirement. In his acceptance speech of Nobel Peace Prize, he spoke about the connection between poverty and crime. One of his pet projects involves training young people in the Middle East and North Africa to become entrepreneurs.

He explains, “The idea is to improve the employment possibilities for young people. In the next decade, we will have at least 1.2 billion men and women under 30 looking for work. With traditional means may be we can employee 300,000. What do we do with nearly a billion? Do we have employment opportunities in future? Then give them proper education. Make them as many entrepreneurs as possible, No problem with micro credit. This is important and I am working with people who can do this.
If young people do not get hope, criminal and terrorists are the best recruiters. So, we have to fight the poverty and that’s my basic message.”

© HURRIYET DAILY NEWS 2009
Picture courtesy: Mikko Koivumaa

‘Sustainability saves money’

Posted In: . By Journalism student


Photo Courtesy: Ashok B Lall Architects

Architect Ashok B Lall claims the construction of ecologically sustainable IRRAD building in Gurgaon was built at no extra cost and will save 25-30 per cent cost in 5 years. Kunal Majumder reports.

Architect Ashok B Lall’s construction of Institute Of Rural Research And Development (IRRAD) office in Gurgaon has proved that sustainable architecture can not only save the environment but also your money। Built on a cost of Rs 20,000-22,000 per square area, the building is expected to save at least 25-30 per cent less electricity and other costs in 5 years.


“About 90 per cent of any sustainable project requires no extra cost, may be even less. This notion about high cost is complete myth,” claims Lall, who has been in the business of architecture for a quarter of a century.

He feels 80 per cent of sustainable designing is about common sense and rest includes sophisticated technology। “Technology is required only to price down the energy consumed by air conditioners. With intelligent design like the IRRAD building, you can bring down the electricity cost by almost 50 per cent.”


SM Sehgal Foundation, the owners of the building, wanted to create a workspace that had a frugal appearance and spoke about its aim as a rural development NGO। They also wanted to addresses the looming dangers of global warming. “We wanted to use as much natural materials as possible and try to reduce the dependency on energy,” says a spokesperson, SM Sehgal Foundation.


Basics of light and air

Along with his client’s brief, Lall implemented few more principles of sustainable architecture like maximum use of daylight and minimum requirement of air conditioning। Daylight plays a very important role in the IRRAD building. The architect has tried to modulate the use of light through fixed blinds and positioning of the building. All functional spaces have daylight and require artificial lights only on a cloudy day. “Movable blinds are used only in classrooms to darken the room during film projection. Only one window faces west and uses blinds. Otherwise all are daylight modulated,” says Lall. The auditorium has an option of using both day light as well as artificial lighting with help of a simple pulley.


When it comes to air conditioning, the architect has gone completely green. He has used timbre for air conditioning grills instead of aluminium. Lall says he ensured most of the timbre was sourced from managed forest resources. Use of timbre has ensured less energy consumption and is also renewable as a material. Only about 20 per cent of the area has false ceiling as Lall has tried to contain air condition ducts in a certain space.

The building also has natural ventilation facility। This helps in minimising air condition use during pleasant sessions. Apart from the auditorium, most spaces have ceiling fans. “Apart from 60-70 days in the year, there is no requirement of air condition in this building,” claims Lall.


Courtyard has been turned into a semi indoor space with a huge photovoltaic solar roof। The building generates power from 35 kWP photovoltaic solar panels. A concrete jaali has ensured modulation of daylight as well as creates design out of sunrays.


Creating out of waste

He ensured that most of the materials used were sourced locally within 500 kms radius। The materials used required very little processing energy to make it suitable for the building. His team gave preference to bio-mass materials like bamboo, teak wood, timber and rubber wood. “These materials are quickly renewable and hold Carbon Dioxide in themselves. Conversely, we banned use of aluminium in the work because aluminium is a highly energy consuming material,” explains Lall.


Large numbers of stones including granite and sandstone have been used in the project based on their sustainability for particular purposes and locations। Another important principle was to ensure minimal wastage. The design team used stone patterns in various combinations without sticking to traditional geometrical shapes. Lall feels this helped to utilise the leftovers and gave a new design dimension to the project. “The key is No Wastage! Think creative and move beyond the conventional fixed pattern.” Apart from stones, the other waste materials like mirror, broken titles and waste plywood have been used creatively in backdrops of important parts of the building like the reception and the auditorium. Even leftover materials from lifts have been used at the entrance and benches. “If you use your imagination creatively, there is nothing called waste,” explains Lall.


The IRRAD is a self service office with pantry space at each floor. The dustbins in these areas are segregated as biodegradable and non biodegradable. This adds to the larger theme of environmental sustainability.

The bricks of the building are made from earth dug out for the basement. Lall has even left a portion of the wall uncovered to give the visitors an idea about what lies under the shinny surface!



‘Retailers more focused in recession’

Posted In: . By Journalism student


By

Kunal Majumder

Retailers are no longer interested in expanding in all directions and are more focused on sticking to locations and formats that work, feels Shubhranshu Pani, managing director of retail at international property consultancy Jones Lang LaSalle Meghraj.

“The tier II/III growth story in terms of retail is now on indefinite hold. Retail space developers will concentrate on focused developments in the metros and other proven catchments. Previous expansion plans will only be implemented once economic revival injects new liquidity and better sentiments into the market,” said Pani.

Fashion lifestyle category, which accounts for between 45-50 per cent of the country’s overall organised retail market, would see least 10-15 per cent in the next two years, Pani announces.

“Much depends on where the economy goes, but India currently has over a million consumers who invest regularly in fashion and lifestyle accessories. This number is unlikely to decrease, since baseline tastes do not change,” he explains.

Speaking on the realty front, Pani says retailers are now preferring single format stores on high streets compared to the malls.“Retailers have been contending with issues of viability and visibility and now give lesser importance to stores for branding purposes. High streets are the format of the future.”

Price the goods right, occupy the right spaces, use catchment-appropriate marketing and advertising, avoid overstocking and hire the right kind of people are the five mantras to override the economic slump, says Pani.

Rental falls
Retail rentals in the high streets and shopping malls of metro cities, in the past few months, have dropped significantly, according to a report prepared by globally renowned consulting firm Cushman & Wakefield. A further decline in the rentals of such properties is also expected during the current year (2009), predicts the report.
Some big retail names have defaulted their rent from September-October 2008 onwards, according to Association of Mall Owners of North India. Around 300 retailers operate out of 70 malls in north India.

Retailers Association of India (RAI) has called for a correction in rentals. RAI announced that if mall owners have not passed on the recent market correction in rentals, there may be a possibility that the retailers are trying to re-negotiate terms. According to RAI, 30-35 per cent of retailers want re-look at the terms of the contract with the mall developers.
The study reports a high overall vacancy rate of 16 per cent as at end of 2008. While, NCR had a mall vacancy of 24 per cent, it was 10 per cent in Mumbai. This has forced property rentals for retail space down from 20 to 40 per cent. A further drop of 10 to 15 per cent can not be ruled out, says Rajneesh Mahajan, Director, Retail services, Cushman & Wakefield.


· New Delhi-NCR has witnessed massive fall in retail rentals. While, the decline in the South Delhi was 12 per cent and 22 per cent in Noida, it was as high as 27 per cent in West Delhi. High streets like Connaught Place, Karol Bagh and Basant Lok witnessed the drop of 16 per cent, though it was slightly lower at 14 per cent in Khan Market.


· The drop in rentals in the Southern metro cities of Chennai, Hyderabad and Bangalore was a massive 33 per cent, 29 per cent, and 28 per cent respectively


· The drop in property rentals in Mumbai was as high as 44 per cent on Linking Road, while 41 per cent in South Mumbai areas of Kemps Corner and Breach Candy, and 38 per cent in Colaba Causeway. Even new shopping areas of Vashi and Goregaon registered drops respectively of 20 per cent and 17 per cent. The upcoming Northern suburb of Mulund also witnessed a drop of 14 per cent.

Fashion in Preservation

Posted In: . By Journalism student


Up the sharp, winding stretch leading to the Kangra valley, along a five km stretch
at a height of 4,780 feet above sea level, one comes across a hub of what may be described as the ultimate in street fashion. This is the little pocket where ‘prisoners of conscience’ tailor, cheek-by-jowl with Tibetan escapees and the appointed guardians of the Tibetans in-exile, steeped in the craft of their land. McLeodganj in Dharamsala, also called ‘Little Lhasa’, is that patch on earth where fashion takes a new meaning from shop to shop. As the bus lumbers its way up the valley, one can inevitably find oneself in the company of three kinds of people —the Tibetan monks in their maroon and yellow robes talking on their mobile phones or listening to music on their walkmans; the foreign tourists, mostly Israelis and Japanese, with their backpacks, dressed in capris or jeans teamed with kurtis or t-shirts, an ‘Om’ emblazoned on the scarf or stole wrapped around the neck; and of course, the increasingly ubiquitous domestic tourist —either noisy college goers from Delhi in their branded shoes and cheap t-shirts, or Bengali families with trademark monkey caps worn by the males and children, and women in tangails or silks, accompanied by the unmistakable tinkle of the shakha-pola (red and white bangles) that marks their married status.

Get off at the bus stand, and the eyes notice two parallel streets running around a Buddhist temple. Endless stores — mostly emporia, handicraft centres and fashion outlets lined up on either sides, rubbing shoulders with momo kiosks and colourful restaurants serving everything from Israeli to Punjabi cuisine. Quite like the company in the bus, people of all hues and race come to McLeodganj and add to the richness of its cosmopolitan culture and fashion. Young Tibetans are clearly in awe of trends that blow in from the West. Whether it is the market place or the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts, youngsters are much at ease in their jeans and tees. Don’t be surprised if a Tibetan girl strolls down the street, a shovel on one shoulder and a chic looking bag on the other. More than 50 years in exile, Tibetans have opened up to change, and fashion definitely features high on their priority list. And, in tune with the winds of change is the move to hold beauty pageants each year. Started in 2002 by a young entrepreneur Lobsang Wangyal, the Miss Tibet contest is seen as an important chapter in the Tibetans’ entry into modernity. “There were murmurs of protest from some quarters of the society, but
people now realise that we have to move with modern times to survive. Younger generations respect their tradition, and yet love the modern fashion,” says Wangyal.

The market at McLeodganj is a shopping haven for tourists. While it may not offer the
existing popular brands, the collection of handicraft is amazing. Some may find the
pricing prohibitive, but for tourists like Marie Naudascher from Paris, it’s cheaper here than in her country. “I bought three knitted slippers and three chapka (fur cap with flaps) at prices much less than home. The best part is that I know what I have is authentic,” she smiles. The streets here are a riot of colours. From the dominant Tibetan hues of red and yellow to the simple blue jeans, from floral patterns on chupaas (the Tibetan traditional dress) to multicoloured bangles, from plain red t-shirt to striped scarf in red and blue — the place captivates the visitor’s sartorial senses. Traditional Tibetan prints, signs and symbols are a rage with the tourists. Almost all of the handicraft-cum-fashion outlets store some or the other form of the traditional Thangkas (pronounced ‘tong-ka’), which is a piece of handpainted silk with amazingly intricate designs of deities and scenes from the Buddhist faith. Fabric thangkas, mostly made of silk, some woven, some embroidered, and others made using a technique similar to appliqué, goes back many centuries in Tibet. The appliqué artists at Norbulingka Institute of Tibetan Culture (NITC) structure hundreds of handcut pieces of silk and brocade for their elaborate creations, which often take months. Skilled at creating and painting thangka, they are equally adept at woodcarving and carpentry, sewing and clothes making. Jamyang Nyima is a stitching instructor at NITC. He learnt his craft from the tailors of the Dalai Lama in Tibet. After escaping to India, he taught his skills to others escapees. “Clothing for Tibetans has changed. It’s much warmer here which requires a major change in dressing styles. However the basic design has stayed the same,” he claims. As more and more Tibetans pick up western fashion, traditional wear like chupaa is limited to festivities. Nyima says foreigners are more interested in Tibetan fashion and culture than the locals.

From sleeveless blouses to dragon-print shirts, belts, waistcoats and Chinese shirts –
there is an impressive variety of Tibetan dresses to pick up from at the Norbilingka
showroom. The prices begin at Rs. 1500 and can go up to Rs. 50,000. For something more affordable, one should visit the Tibetan Handicraft Centre in the main market at the
end of those parallel streets. There is also a small tailoring unit where one can find ready-to-wear Tibetan shirts for as less as Rs 220. There is also the option to select the fabric of
choice and get a made-to-order customised dress. Not shirts alone, they also sell chupaas,
chapka hats, shawls and even Tibetan flags. Across the street from the tailoring unit, lies
the main showroom of the Tibetan Handicraft Centre, selling almost every kind of handicraft —from carpets to bags, from incense to lamps. The price again is affordable and genuine. A few metres away on the other lane stands the store of the Tibetan Children’s Village. Children who are unable to study further are taught skills like tailoring and designing, and the products they make are sold in this store.
For Tibetans, fashion is not just about preservation, it is also about economic empowerment. That is one reason why a number of organisations, like the Tibetan Children’s Village, have chosen this route. Another such group is Stitches of Tibet. Started by the Tibetan Women’s Association in 1995, the organisation helps unskilled Tibetan women, most of them recent escapees, to become self-reliant. The range of traditional and modern Tibetan garments and handicraft that are produced during the training period are sold at the Stitches of Tibet store. Another organisation, the Gu-Chu-Sum movement of Tibet, was formed by former prisoners settled here. They began with a small tailoring unit, and later got associated with Tibetan Collection, a wholesale trading company that promotes Tibetan handicraft and garments in India and the USA.
Situated right in the heart of India, this undoubtedly is a unique retail market. One can only hope it retains the flavour of the land even as the winds blow in from across the mountains.

'Hardware makes our lives functional'

Posted In: . By Journalism student

A critic once described designer Mukul Goyal's work as "a purist's expression of design with a little bit of fun added along the way". As a home accessory designer, he has been known for blending traditional materials like dokra with contemporary expression. His signature brand 'Mukul Goyal' consists of gift items like photo frames, mirrors, lamps and small furniture.

In 1998, he launched his curtain hardware line 'Tattva'. Now he is set to launch three new lines under the 'Tattva' brand. Goyal speaks to Kunal Majumder about the important of hardware designing and his plans for his collections.

How difficult is it to design hardware?
Designing hardware is as difficult as any other design form and sometimes more challenging. Hardware is important to our lives. It makes things around us functional. As a designer, I aim to create characters through design – be it towel rings or hangers. And we cannot forget that designs have to relate. A user has to connect with the product. At the end of the day, it reflects the different aspects of people's lives.

What are the new ranges of hardware that you are planning?
We are launching three new curtain hardware ranges. The decorative classical collection is called Tattva Classic. It offers a selection of finials, tiebacks, rings and decorative brackets in brass and copper. The accessories will be in hues of matt gold, matt nickel, antique brass, antique copper and antique nickel.

Tattva Utsav is about grandeur with bold yet clean looks. Even this collection offers a selection of finials, tiebacks, rings and decorative. Brass is used as the raw material while the finishes are in matt gold, matt nickel and antique brass.

Tattva Chrome is the third range at offer. This collection has a sleek and contemporary form. I have used stainless steel and chrome to create finials, tiebacks and rings.

There are plans for a fourth range. We plan to call it Tattva Prêt. This range would target the value segment. We hope to offer the same quality at a more affordable price.


Do you have any plans to expand your hardware range?

All our designs are custom made. I'm not sure about selling merchandise for the sake of expansion. We are a small company and wish to take small steps forward. We plan to make our mark in the bathroom hardware and handles segment.

Has the present economic crisis hit your business?
Our hardware business is not export oriented so there has been no major effect. About 95 per cent of the business is domestics while rest is exported. Yes, prices have gone up. As a brand we have not been able to tap the super premium segment. We are working towards it.


Why do you export so less?
Around 7-8 years back, we used to export a lot. However with the changing economic scenario in the country, the demand has increased here. Plus there is a cost factor involved. Many exporters at times are not willing to give the due credit to the designers. All they want is products in lots at a cheap rate.

What are the raw materials used in your hardware collections?
We mainly use brass, copper and stainless steel but never aluminum.

As someone who has been there in the industry for some years now, what are the trends you have noticed or followed?
I do not believe in trends. I'm against the culture of use and throw. When you buy a product, you build a personal association. You simply cannot throw out something because a third person says that it is out of trend. I think that trends are marketing strategies to create more demand. My designs are like a pair of blue jeans. You don't throw away your jeans after a few uses. It grows on you with time.

Tell us something about your retail strategy. Are you planning to launch a store of your own?
We have been thinking about this for sometime now. However nothing has been worked out till date. Entering into the retail space is an expensive affair and we are not ready as of now. We are present in 50-60 furnishings stores across 22-25 cities around the country.

Our business has evolved completely on 'word-of-mouth'. We have never spent a single rupee on marketing and publicity. Though we have a limited presence, we have never approached any store with our products. Apart from the initial 2-3 stores, rests of the retailers have come to us asking for our products. We let our design speak.

What about your international presence?
As per hardware is concerned, we have recently launched a line of curtain rods called 'Mukul' in Germany. We are eagerly waiting to know the response.

Tell us something about the pricing of your products and target customers.
The price starts at Rs 500 and there is no limit on the other side. As far as customers are concerned, we target the upper middle class and above. Our clients are interested in good products and appreciate interesting designs.

Are you a designer or a businessperson?
(Smiles) We produce art to be used by other people. A designer cannot create something that people may not accept or use. The challenge is to create the perceived value for our products. The price tag has to be lower than the perceived value. We have to ensure that customer thinks he is getting the value for his money.

How receptive is the Indian market to hardware?
In the last few years, the market has become more receptive. Hardware is after all essential element of any home decor. The question is whether one is willing to go for art hardware or simple hardware. I would say hardware has certainly been upgraded and has become a part of the decor. We have just entered the bath hardware section and will have to wait for the response from the market.

How does your range of hardware contribute to the interiors of a space?
When one designs a space, he or she has to keep in mind elements like natural light, curtains, colours etc. Each element contributes to the decor. The main idea is how you do it. A designer needs to select a central point, based on which the interiors are planned. If there are too many elements involved, the space would turn too loud. So hardware would become a part of the space based on the importance given to it.

Bong philosophy on Bangla elections

Posted In: . By Journalism student


Commentary By:Kunal Majumder
The defeat of Khalida Zia and her allies in the recently concluded Bangladesh elections once again proved that majority of Bengalis – either in the Indian state of West Bengal or the independent Bangladesh – don't believe in mixing religion with politics.
There were two key issues in the Bangladesh election this time. One was religion or as Zia and her Islamist friends called 'the protection of Islam'. The second issue, as promoted by Sheikh Hasina and her allies, was development and poverty eradication. Victory of Hasina and allies with a two third majority gives a clear indication about the preference of the Bangladeshi people.

The main right wing party in India – BJP has repeatedly failed to do well in West Bengal even though it was formed by a Bengali – Syma Prasad Mookerjee. In Bangladesh, Islam was adopted as the state religion only in 1988 under a military ruler. The Telegraph, based in Kolkata (the capital of Indian state of Bengal) called the election results 'the stunning Hasina cyclone'. It added that the win '"gives her the power to craft a new history for one of the poorest countries on the face of the earth, and prove that its culture overcomes religious fundamentalism."

The radical Islamist group Jamaat-e-Islami has been a major loser in this election. Jamaat's numbers has gone down to 2 from 18 in last parliament. The party, which was a part of Zia's alliance, has historically been pro-Pakistan. During 1971 struggle of independence, it had supported the anti-liberation forces. There have been demands to prosecute them as war criminals. Bangladesh's leading newspaper The Daily Stars calls Jamaat's defeat as "sweet revenge for Bangladeshis against the war criminals".
Jamaat along with other religious fanatics in Bangladesh have been vocal about their anti-India feeling. Indian intelligence has claimed Bangladeshi terrorist groups like Harkat-ul-Jihad-al Islami Bangladesh (HuJI-B) responsible for attacks on its cities. With Hasina at the realm, India expects such forces to be controlled. It has often been feared that Pakistan has been increasing its influence on the country. Pakistani intelligence organ – ISI is said to have been recruiting from the poverty-stricken villages of Bangladesh. However the uprooting of Jamaat and the win of Hasina clearly indicates that Bangladeshis are in no mood to allow their country to become another of ISI laboratories.

Indian Bengal overjoyed

The Indian state of West Bengal is overjoyed with the return of Hasina and her secular and liberal policies. Indian External Affairs Minister and a major leader from the state – Pranab Mukherjee would soon visit Bangladesh to personally convey India's good wishes.

Mukherjee hailed the return of democracy in Bangladesh and observed that "the massive participation of a large number of voters and the outcome is a clear demonstration and manifestation of people's confidence in multi-party democracy". Referring to the issue of terrorism, he said that India had raised the issue of terrorism emanating from the Bangladesh territory with the earlier Government, "…but unfortunately we have met with some denial. So at that point of time, we had most respectfully reminded them that if you simply deny the existence of a problem you will never solve the problem".
Veteran communist leader and former West Bengal chief minister Jyoti Basu recalled that during Hasina's earlier tenure as prime minister friendly ties between India and Bangladesh had improved. "I hope friendly relations between the two countries would be further strengthened following the victory of the Awami League-led alliance," Basu said in a statement.

Hasina shares a personal relationship with India. After the murder of her father Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, who was the founder and the first Prime Minster of Bangladesh, Hasina and her sister took asylum in India. She returned to her country on 1981 to take charge of her father's party Awami League. During her first term in office (1996-2001), India and Bangladesh enjoyed an excellent relationship. One of the major highlights has been the 30 year-agreement of sharing of Ganges river water.

This election is not just about the return of democracy in this poverty-stricken-country after two years of military backed emergency rule. The result reflects a shift in the larger national mood in Bangladesh. As one of the poorest nations in the world, the key focus for the country is poverty. Hasina has already declared that one of her first steps would be to reduce essential goods' price. "Our lone enemy is poverty and we will work hard to eradicate poverty from the country."

A Bengali's footnote

"My Bengal of gold, I love you
Forever your skies, your air set my
heart in tune as if it were a flute…"
In 1971, Amar Shonar Bangla (My Golden Bengal) by Indian national poet Rabindranath Tagore was adopted as the national anthem of Bangladesh. Even as it struggles with poverty and religious fanaticism, Bengali philosophy of cultural oneness still prevails.

Barack Obama must give high priority to the Middle East conflict during the first year in office as the United States President, said Martti Ahtisaari after received this year’s Nobel Peace Prize at Oslo, Norway on December 10. The former Finnish president urged the international community to seriously commit itself for a result to the crisis in that region.
“Solution can be found to the crises stretching from Israel and Palestine to Iraq and Iran. If we want to achieve lasting results, we must look at the whole region. The credibility of the whole international community is at stake. We cannot go on, year after year, simply pretending to do something to help the situation in the Middle East. We must also get results,” he added.
He also rubbished claims that there is no possible solution to the crisis. “The tensions and wars in the region have been going on for so long that many have come to believe that the Middle East knot can never be untied. I do not share this belief. All crises, including the one in the Middle East, can be resolved. The solution would require a contribution from all the parties involved as well as the international community as a whole,” said Ahtisaari.
The man, credited to have resolved crisis in places like Kosovo and Indonesia, believes growing inequality within countries and between regions deepens the existing conflicts. Drawing a direct relationship between development and conflict, he said, “It is our task to create a future and hope for regions and countries in crisis where young people suffer from unemployment and have little prospects of improving their lives. Unless we can meet this challenge, new conflicts will flare up and we will lose another generation to war.”
He called for more humanitarian assistance and investment in poorer countries। According to him, hundreds of millions of young people will be out of work in countries that are in early stages of development। If nothing is done, such places will become breeding ground for crime, instability and war as young people lose all hope.
By : Kunal Majumder

The story of Cloetta Fazer

Posted In: . By Journalism student


What happens when two Nordic partners split?

The Nordic region’s largest chocolate and sugar confectionery player Cloetta Fazer has split. Yet another de-merger in the dynamic world of commerce, so what makes this story so tempting?

The company was formed after merging two giants – Cloetta of Sweden and Fazer Konfektyr of Finland in 2000. With a market share of 22 per cent, it became Nordic region’s largest chocolate and sugar Confectionery Company. Cloetta Fazer seemed unstoppable with its operations spread from Stockholm to Moscow. Twelve brands of the company dominated and still dominate the taste buds of Scandinavia -- Karl Fazer, Dumle and Geisha are the most popular. Then eight years later, they decided to part ways.

“The owners had a different view of the company`s future growth strategy. The business has been growing during the last eight years, and the results have been good, so the reason of de-merge doesn’t come from business issues,” claims Tom Lindblad, managing director, Cloetta Fazer. The reasoning is still very vague. Through the de-merger, the two separate companies -- Cloetta and Fazer Confectionery would be created. The company announced that the new Cloetta intends to apply for a listing on the OMX Nordic Exchange, Stockholm while Fazer Confectionery will be consolidated in the privately held Fazer Group.

How it all began

Fazer Group has been in the business of chocolate since 1922 when its founder Karl Fazer launched what was to become the company’s flagship product, Fazer Blue milk chocolate.

Karl Fazer was fascinated by all the pleasures that chocolate signified. His father had migrated to Russian Grand Duchy of Finland from Switzerland in 1844. When Karl Fazer decided to enter the business of pastries and chocolates, his father wasn’t quite pleased by his choice of vocation. However he was more bothered about his customer’s expectations than his father. “The Fazer company`s philosophy has always been to exceed our customers expectations. Quality is the most important argument for our products,” claims Lindblad.

By the turn of the century, Karl Fazer’s company was Finland’s largest in the confectionary business and had 203 employees. Today, despite the impending demerger, the company continues to be the largest in Finland with 42 per cent market share by volume. In Sweden, it controls 24 per cent of the confectionary market by volume. As of now, it has around 1,600 employees on its payroll.

Branding the chocolate

When Fazer Blue milk chocolate was launched, Karl Fazer decided that a blue colour on the wrapper would a symbol of patriotism – Finland had earned its independence only a few years earlier. From a single brand, today the company owns twelve prioritised brands are Karl Fazer, Kexchoklad, Dumle, Geisha, Polly, Ässä, Tutti Frutti, Pantteri/Salta Katten, Center, Marianne, Tyrkisk Peber and Plopp. Lindblad claims each of them are characterised by a high degree of innovation and strong market positions.

In 1967 Karl Fazer’s grandson Peter Fazer took a major step towards internationalising the company by establishing Karl Fazer AB in Sweden. Around 87 per cent of the total sales volume is sold in the Nordic countries, which make up the Group´s home market. The export markets account for 13 per cent of volume sales. Apart from Sweden and Finland, the company’s biggest markets are travel trade, Norway, Denmark, Russia, Estonia, Latvia, Poland and Czech Republic.

Market dynamics

The total Nordic confectionery market amounts to around 280,000 tonnes annually, according to data compiled by Cloetta Fazer from sources that include Delfi, ETL, MarkedsFakta. Sweden is the region’s largest single market, accounting for around a third of total consumption. Next largest is Finland, followed by Denmark and Norway. The largest export markets outside the Nordic region are the Baltic countries and Russia.

While the market on most Nordic countries are comparatively mature, with insignificant growth of around zero or a few per cent for several years, Finland has grown at an average of 2.5 per cent in the last five years. The Nordic countries account for roughly 2 per cent of total global confectionery consumption, claims the data.

Speaking on the company’s expansion strategy, Lindblad said, “We have an organic growth strategy for all exciting market, and we are also active in finding new markets.”

Cloetta Fazer retails its product through all major retailers in Nordic countries. The company feels it is important for all retail markets to have right products, interesting/strong branding and a professional way to work together.

Chocolates and their factories

Production started with a small chocolate factory at Pursimiehenkatu, Helsinki at the beginning of 20th century. According to last year’s figure, it produced 285 tonnes of confectionery on an average working day. As of now Cloetta Fazer has five production units in Sweden and Finland.

Cloetta Fazer manufactured a total of around 62,000 tonnes of chocolate and sugar confectionery in 2007. “After the de-merger of Cloetta Fazer, we will have factories only in Finland (3 factories). At the moment we don’t have plans to open new factories,” said Lindblad.

The company sources its raw materials – cocoa – from the narrow belt along the equator. When quizzed about Cloetta Fazer’s sourcing strategy, Lindblad said, “We are working a lot with sustainability in the Fazer group. We are also developing the purchasing process of cocoa, and that work we are doing together with our cocoa suppliers. Traceability is another very important issue that we are working with at the moment, but there is still some work to do in this area.”

Competing for the future

Lindblad claims all big confectionary companies are his competitors. After the de merger Fazer and Cloetta will compete with each other though each have their own territory. “We have to be ready for an even tougher competition in future. We have our roots in the Nordics, and we need to build our strengths and strategy based on that.”

The global economic slump has still not affected the company’s business, claims Lindblad. When asked whether developing markets like India would be a possible place for further growth, he said, “We don’t yet have a clear plan for India. India is a very interesting market, but we need first to analyze the market and trade better to make the decision of go or no go.”

Where does Fazer stand in the international chocolate industry in the next 10 years? “In the coming times, big companies will become bigger and there will be a lot of small local producers as well. We are following the situation and acquisitions in future may be possible,” said Lindblad.

Cloetta is expected to concentrate on its Swedish business and would continue to dominate it as a major player.




Photo : Gargi

New Fashion Flavours

Posted In: . By Journalism student


Photo Courtesy: Renu Tendon

Boundaries are fast melting and one often finds varied cultural flavours and inspirations doing the rounds on our runways. Kunal Majumder takes a close took at designers who have merged cultural identities and have drawn inspiration from Islamic patterns.

More than global, Indian fashion designers are making an effort to glocalise their fashion stance. The current Indian fashion scene is redefining boundaries by borrowing from national as well as international cultures. One such borrowing trend recently spotted on the runways finds its roots in Islamic culture. There are designers in both India and abroad who are infusing Islamic nuances in their creations. For instance, British designer Sophia Kara made an outfit composed of a hooded abaya with a matching niqab (face veil) in shocking pink over a salwar as part of her Imaan collection. That’s not all, high-end designer labels such as Hermès and Gucci are picking Muslim trends by doing a range of scarves and a number of other garments. But let’s just put aside international design trends and take a look at the Indian fashion industry. Islamic influences can be spotted in our part of the world in elegant kaftans, toga dresses and zuave pants. One is now able to see a lot of cultural exchange on the globe. Here's one such positive influence.

Silhouettes
The underlying thought in Islamic fashion is that of modesty. Hence, while picking Islamic influences, designers have to make sure that they create clothes that don't violate the Islamic dress code. Kaftans, ponchos, zuave pants and different version of culottes, all find their roots in Islamic fashion. The perfect example of this can be Kareena Kapoor’s kaftan look in the chartbuster Mauja hi mauja from the movie Jab We Met. Headscarves are an important component of Islamic ensemble and Renu Tandon is probably one of the few Indian designers to experiment with this accessory the most. Many Indian designers use Islamic silhouettes on Indian ramps – Malini Ramani, who has a major customer base in the Middle East, is one such designer. Other than her, designers like Rohit Bal, Zubair Kirmani and Monapali have drawn heavily from Islamic architecture and art forms.

Motifs and Designs
Middle Eastern and Turkish motifs and silhouettes are the new rage on the Indian runways. In the floral family flowered stems, jasmine, rose, and lotus motifs are the most
popular. Geometrical designs inspired from various Turkish and Mughal monuments can be found sitting on a number of dresses and famous Mughal jaalis have found an expression in many a designers’ works.

Embroidery
Ritu Kumar, Meera Muzaffar Ali and Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla use traditional embroideries like chikankari and zardozi, which originated from Persia (Iran). A wedding trousseau by Tahiliani or saris by Kumar are unimaginable without zardozi, intricate
patterns in gold and silver studded with pearls and precious stones.

Zubair Kirmani, who hails from Kashmir, has successfully used the famous Kashmiri kashida work on his clothes. Kashida is a form of embroidery that draws inspiration from flowers, creepers, chinar leaves and mango motifs. Here’s a lowdown:

Rohit Bal
Rohit Bal is famous for his geometrical motifs that he picks from various Islamic structures. He claims that his latest collection – Siyaahi – was inspired from the ancient city of Constantinople. “The intrinsic inspiration is the art of the Iznik tiles of ancient Turkey. Their heritage of distinct deep blue and meticulous, intricate glazing evokes whispers of Mughal influence,” says Gudda.

The collection comprised a range of voluminous evening gowns, arabesque motifs in all shades of turquoise, blue and silver. The entire collection was full of pleated outfits, cone-shaped skirts, over-dimensional puff sleeves and ballet inspired tutus. Huge leafy creepers in silver ran across voluminous long skirts; long elegant overcoats and vests came in elaborate jacquards and rich embroidered silks.

Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla can be easily crowned the royal Mughal couturiers. Their work has always involved revival of heritage crafts. Chikankari, zardozi, sequins and beadwork are highlights of any Abu Sandeep creation. The designer
duo claims to have given zardozi a modern dimension by reworking it on different materials and colours. They started using sequins and beadwork way back in 1989 by applying this embroidery technique on black and white chuddars carried
with plain crep-de-chine outfits.

Renu Tandon
Renu Tandon seems to have specialised in Middle Eastern fashion. Her last collection at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week was targeted at customers from that region. “I maybe targeting customers from the Middle East but my dresses will also appeal to the Indian market because a lot is common in both the cultures,” says Renu. Her collection named Mystic included a lot of tunics and kaftans. The collection also included scarves designed to match the dresses. In terms of motifs, she used the classic Islamic floral designs and colours in hues of black and violet.

Monapali
Pali Sachdeva of Monapali insists that her inspiration is not just Islamic. She calls it an “amalgamation of forms, arts and mediums”. “A Monapali ensemble could be hand painted or could have a Mughal motif set in a western silhouette,” says Pali. Her last collection reflected this quite clearly. Although her design and motifs were not Islamic, her silhouettes were. Loose toga dresses, long kaftans and Islamic
drapes were prominent in her collection.

Zubair Kirmani
Zubair Kirmani is another designer who is influenced by the Islamic way of life. His latest collection was all about tones of blue, maroon and copper with some black. “My collections are influenced by movements like Sufism. I also use a lot of geometry in design,” says Zubair. His work is intricate. He uses a lot of appliqué work and kashida. There is a refreshing use of muted hues and shades of white. Zubair uses a mix of traditional Islamic and modern silhouettes.


Meera and Muzaffar Ali
Sufism is intrinsic to all Meera and Muzaffar Ali creations. Everything – right from their silhouettes to designs – is inspired by the Islamic culture. Their label called Kotwara uses traditional hand embroideries and places them on modern silhouettes. Zardozi and chikankari are essential to Kotwara's couture. The most unique part of their collections is the use of khatati and Urdu calligraphy. The designer couple is credited with experimenting with traditional Islamic silhouettes like toga and kaftans and making it contemporary and modern.

Beauty in exile

Posted In: . By Journalism student

Sonam Choeden is Miss Tibet 2008. Since 2002, Miss Tibet beauty pageant has become a yearly event in the Tibetan cultural calender. It has attracted both support and criticism. Kunal Majumder probes the minds behind this concept.

A Talk with a Future

Posted In: . By Journalism student

Earlier this year, members of Tibetan Youth Congress organised a series of protest coinciding with the preparations of Beijing Olympics. Kunal Majumder spoke with Tsewang Rigzin, the president of Tibetan Youth Congress on the political role of Tibetan youth.

Busy October for fashion designers

Posted In: . By Journalism student

Atul Chand, Chief Divisional Executive, Wills Lifestyle with Manish Arora,Grand Finale, Designer, WIFW, Sunil Sethi, President, FDCI at the unveiling of the Grand Finale Designer for WIFW SS'09

Picture Courtesy:FDCI


By

Kunal Majumder


October is a busy month for the fash frat. While New Delhi will witness two fashion weeks, several designers will be participating at international events like the London Fashion Week and the Tranoi Fair.

Spring/summer 2009 show

The five-day Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW) Spring/Summer 2009 commences on October 15. Designer Manish Arora will showcase his collections at the finale. Called the ‘Manish Arora Circus’, the work will interpret the drama of circus in his own signature style. He will also create an exclusive collection for Wills Lifestyle that will be retailed through Wills Lifestyle stores.

WIFW also announced the names of 18 designers participating for the very first time at WIFW. This list includes some of the well-known names like AG2 by Adarsh Gill, Sanchita Ajjampur and accessory designers like Shelina & Camelia and Priyanka Murarka Jool Kurry.

Other Fashion Week

Delhi Fashion Week, the initiative by the breakway fashion body, Fashion Foundation of India led by Sumeet Nair, is scheduled to begin on October 14.

“The Fashion Foundation of India will work closely with the participating designers to enable them to best present their collection to the buyers and the media,” said Meera Ali, spokesperson, Fashion Foundation of India.

Ali claimed that the format of the Delhi Fashion Week is based on feedback received from buyers, eminent people from within the industry, media, international agents and the designers themselves.

Global showcase

Meanwhile, young designers Gaurav Gupta and Varun Sardana along with other eminent names like Tarun Tahiliani and Rohit Bal participated at the prestigious Tranoi Fair in Paris. Fashion Foundation of India had offered grants to these designers. This time, Tranoi Fair has India as the theme. Titled ‘Made in India, the fair has an Indian pavillion from October 2 and then from March 2-5.

Fashion designers Rina Dhaka and Nitin Bal Chauhan exhibited their collections at the spring/summer 2009 edition of London Fashion Week. The exhibition played host to over 210 top British and international ready-to-wear and accessory designers ranging from the edgy and cool to the contemporary and commercial. Dhaka showcased her collection in the ready-to-wear segment while Chauhan’s collection was exhibited in the Estethica segment.

Wearable Art

Three Indian design outfits have been shortlisted to be showcased at the famous fashion art show, Montana World of Wearable Art 2008, based in New Zealand. FDCI has promised to provide a cash award of Rs 30,000 each to the designs shortlisted.

The winners include NP Jayaraj and Pooja Bedi of Pearl Academy of Fashion, New Delhi, Pooja Gosain of NIFT, New Delhi and Pooja Rajput of SNDT College, Mumbai.

IFF, Kuala Lumpur

This year’s edition of International Islamic Festival (IIF) at Kuala Lumpur is expected to attract a number of fashion designers from South Asia. To be held in November, the theme of the festival is ‘Discover the Beauty of Modesty’. The event aims to popularise Islamic couture. With the aim to promote young talent, IIF plans to launch the IIF Young Designer’s Award this year.

Design award

In another development fashion journalist and former beauty queen Meher Castelino and designer Rahul Mishra will represent India at the International Apparel Federation (IAF) in the Netherlands. Castelino will be part of the jury while Mishra would be competing for the annual IAF International Design Award 2008.

Pix courtesy: FDCI